Free Camping

Australia has many great locations to enjoy the great outdoors, and I reckon free-camping with your RV is the best way to enjoy these spots. It’s terrific to see that most of the road authorities in the different States have increased their free-camping sites along their major road networks, with many providing great facilities in wonderful locations.

You can find official free rest areas and other useful road information for the different Australian States and the Territory here:

If you’re desperate (and game) for a free camp with good facilities on a hot day, you could try what these backpackers did at Cattrall Park in Karratha. They spread their rug under the verandah of the ablution block and cooked up a feast in their pots and pans on their gas cooker. Their indispensable appliances (laptops, mobile phones, etc) were also charged by an extension cord that they plugged into a power outlet in the nearby Gents toilet. This is what I call bold free camping, which included shade, parkland views, running water, toilets and power… what cheek!

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The backpackers should have used WikiCamps Australia, which is the bible for RV travellers and campers. It has an extensive list of free camps (and caravan parks and day sites), along with user comments and photos in a simple easy-to-use app. We would literally be lost without our Wikicamps!

TOP TIP: Another terrific ‘crowd-sourced’ database app that we regularly use on our travels is Fuel Map. This Smartphone app shows petrol stations and fuel prices from all across Australia, with information added and edited by users (except in WA where prices are automatically updated from Fuel Watch).

Free camps are also becoming popular in an increasing number of country towns as Local Councils encourage travellers to have a stopover in their towns. Some have great day-parking for RVs so you can explore the locale, while others have free sites for one or more nights, toilets and handy dump points. A full list of RV Friendly towns can be found at the Campervan Motorhome Club of Australia website. Whenever we used a town’s RV Friendly facilities, we would buy fuel, food, or other supplies to support the town.

We love the natural unspoiled beauty of our free-camps, and we want them to stay that way. Our philosophy when free-camping is to tread lightly and leave no lasting evidence of us being there. This includes:

  • Carrying enough water and using it frugally;
  • Storing and dispersing black and grey water responsibly;
  • Managing our RV’s power effectively to minimise or avoid using a generator;
  • Respecting the land, landowners and other users (if a sign says no fires, then no fires it is! Call me a prude, but I do get a bit narky when I see campers totally disregard posted signs);
  • Trying to leave the area cleaner than when we arrived (we’re not over-zealous greenies, but we often pick up a couple of bits of litter that have been inadvertently or inconsiderately left behind by others).

Here’s a selection (and our ratings) of some of the free camps we stayed at during our latest trip:

Western Australia

  • Nobby Head North – right on the coast with billion dollar views of the Indian Ocean. Rating: Excellent
  • Minilya Rest Area – next to the Minilya River with good facilities. Rating: OK
  • De Grey River – next to the De Grey River with good facilities, a large number of sites and places to explore. Rating: Excellent
  • Ngumban Cliffs – on a cliff with billion dollar views and incredible sunsets over the Kimberley outback. Rating: Excellent
  • Leycester’s Rest – Bungles nearby and a tragic story about its name. Rating: Good
  • Fraser Range Rest Area – next to a salt lake that provided us mirror-like reflections of the surrounding gums due to recent rains. Rating: Good

Northern Territory

  • Highway Inn, Daly Waters – OK, technically it’s not a free camp, but if you camp out back, the amazing sight of native birds and animals coming to the waterhole at sunset will blow you away. For $25 you also get the powered site, a couple of free beers or wines at the Inn, and a genuine Territorian outback pub experience. Rating: Excellent

Queensland

  • Corella Dam – a large number of sites in a magic location next to the dam. Rating: Excellent (even though no toilet facilities)
  • Prairie Hotel Camping Ground – enjoy good hospitality, food and beer in the pub. Rating: Excellent
  • Calliope River – many sites  and toilet facilities next to the Calliope River. Often packed with campers. Rating: Good
  • Rosendale Park – a little secret tucked away from the highway. Rating: Good

New South Wales

South Australia

  • Bunda Cliffs – take your pick of many amazing sites along the Great Australian Bight, many with billion dollar views! Rating: Excellent

Platypus Country to Bauple

511 kms @ 16.7 litres/100kms and 404 kms @ 15.8 litres/100kms

Clocked up the k’s over the last couple of days. The drive down the mountain from Broken River was slightly terrifying, given we were towing Dora’s rather lengthy 6.4 metres and beefy 2 ½ tonnes down a steep, twisting, misty, wet and slippery road. Unfortunately we missed the Barry-recommended pies at Pinnacle Hotel in Pioneer Valley, but enjoyed tasty homemade sausage rolls from, surprisingly, the BP Roadhouse at Carmila. We free-camped overnight by the scenic river at Calliope before driving to Bundaberg, which obviously meant a visit to the place where they make the famous Bundy Rum.

At the tour of Bundaberg Distillery Company, we sampled the tasty rum, as well as found out lots of interesting facts, including:

  1. The concept of establishing a Rum factory came from the original sugar cane farmers who needed to get rid of the molasses, an unwanted by-product of sugar milling.
  2. The idea of the Polar Bear featuring on Bundaberg Rum had its origins in 1961 when someone thought it would be a good idea to market the rum as a warming elixir to those in colder climes of the south of Australia. The Polar Bear being warmed by the rum was an instant hit!
  3. Only 4% of Bundaberg Rum is sold overseas. Actually, it’s really only 1% as our Kiwi neighbours purchase 3% of the overseas market.
  4. I should have bought the 125-year souvenir edition of Bundaberg Rum. On release in 2013, the $1,250 bottle sold out in just a few hours and collectors are now buying the rare commodity for over $10,000.

Our plan to stay at nearby Hervey Bay was thwarted as all Caravan Parks were full. In our wisdom (which at times is in short supply!), we decided that we didn’t need to book ahead due to the large number of caravan parks at Hervey Bay. We admitted defeat after ringing 10 parks. All were full so we consulted WikiCamps, bought some takeaway pizza, a bottle of red and headed to nearby Rosendale Park near Bauple, which turned out to be a great last-minute free-camp just 40 minutes away. Whale watching at Hervey Bay will have to wait for another trip.

TOP TIP: Book ahead a Caravan Park site in popular tourist towns, even if it appears there are lots of available parks to choose from.

Pioneer Valley Road
Flat Road in Pioneer Valley. Yay!
Calliope Park
Calliope Park
Bundaberg Rum Bottle
Bundaberg Rum Bottle
Bundaberg Rum Sampling
Bundaberg Rum Sampling
Bert, Daisy and a fix of fast food
Not whale watching at Hervey Bay

Port Douglas to Cairns

Travelled 99 kms today @ 90 kph. Troy drank 15.2 litres/100kms.

Back onto Highway 1, only this time on the Captain Cook Highway that hugged the beautiful blue coastline to Cairns. The city of Cairns has a population of over 120,000 and is growing rapidly. As we were in the height of the tourist season and based on good reviews on WikiCamps, we pre-booked Cairns Coconut Holiday Resort (note the absence of the words ‘Caravan Park’). Upon arrival, we were a little bit nervous staying in a place that had odd-looking little electric cars with rather large cartoon characters on their roofs alongside a large playground with screaming kids, however we were pleasantly surprised. Our site was away from the screaming kids in the pool, the helpful girls at check-in were a delight, and the amenities were very high spec (I commented to Jan that the ablution block was nearly better than what we had at home). Mind you, it was a little unsettling to see a Campers Kitchen with immaculately maintained industrial stoves, ovens, and freezers… certainly not what I would call roughing it! After setting up Dora at the swish resort, we went to explore the city.

The local swimming pool on the Cairns foreshore was very popular, and the lovely sprawling boardwalk along the waterfront is best enjoyed when the tide is in; otherwise it’s a view out to mudflats. Although hot and humid during the summer months, the payback for Cairns locals’ is the beautiful warm winter months. While we were here, we heard that the rest of Australia was experiencing extremes of cold weather, with snow falling in many places for the first time. Even Cairns’ locals were saying how cold they were, which I thought was a bit rich given it was sunny here and around 24° (apparently they usually enjoy around 27° this time of the year). We bought a kilo of freshly cooked tiger prawns from the good ship ‘Prawn Star’ in the harbour, Jan knocked up a terrific tropical green salad which included pineapple that we bought from the Port Douglas market, complemented it with a fresh crusty loaf and an icy cold Rosé and presto, another great culinary delight!

The next day we took a train ride aboard the Kuranda Scenic Railway along the ancient rainforest to Kuranda village, 1000 feet above Cairns. The train’s creaking, rumbling, rolling, and at times screeching climb up the hillside was a whimsical journey back in time, and we marvelled at the engineering and physical feat in building this Cairns-Kuranda Railway back in the 1880s.

Upon arriving at Kuranda, we enjoyed a leisurely walk around the Heritage Markets where I savoured the world’s hottest chilli (according to the 2011 Guinness World Records), before wolfing down a double-scoop of Norgen Vaaz ice cream to extinguish the pain. We stumbled onto an unusual plane wreck in the middle of the old markets, which was actually freighted in by a budding entrepreneur in 1983. We then trekked through world heritage listed ancient rainforest in Barron Gorge National Park, where the spirit of Buda-dji is said to live on. Buda-dji is the Carpet Snake who, in the aboriginal people’s Dreamtime legend, carved out the Barron River and creeks that join onto it, from the coast to the Tablelands. We took a scenic journey on the Skyrail which gave us spectacular views and a rainforest canopy experience on our way back down to the flat coastal land to end a great day!

TOP TIP: Take a tour to experience the ancient culture and traditions of the area’s rich Aboriginal culture, combined with the oldest living rainforest on the planet. Beautiful Mossman Gorge near Port Douglas has a couple of highly informative local aboriginal tours daily, and there is also Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park near the Cairns Skyrail.

Captain Cook Highway
Captain Cook Highway
Cairns Prawn Star
Cairns Prawn Star
Cairns Foreshore Pool
Cairns Foreshore Pool
Cairns Coconut Holiday Resort Cars
Cairns Coconut Holiday Resort Cars
Cairns Coconut Holiday Resort Entrance
Cairns Coconut Holiday Resort Entrance
Resort Campers Kitchen
Resort Campers Kitchen
Cairns Coconut Holiday Resort Campers Kitchen Stove
Resort Campers Kitchen Stoves
Cairns Coconut Holiday Resort Site
Cairns Coconut Holiday Resort Site
Bert & Daisy Enjoying Fresh Tiger Prawns
Bert & Daisy Enjoying Fresh Tiger Prawns
Cairns Freshwater Station
Cairns Freshwater Station
Kuranda Scenic Railcar
Kuranda Scenic Railcar
Kuranda Railway
Kuranda Railway
Kuranda Seat
Kuranda Seat
Kuranda Ant Bin
Kuranda Ant Bin
Kuranda German Tucker Wursthouse
Kuranda German Tucker Wursthouse
Hot Chilli Stall
Hot Chilli Stall
Kuranda Plane Wreck
Kuranda Plane Wreck
Kuranda Living Plane Wreck
Kuranda Living Plane Wreck
Barron Gorge Kauri
Barron Gorge Kauri
Cairns Kuranda Skyrail
Cairns Kuranda Skyrail
Skyrail view to Cairns
Skyrail view to Cairns

Perth to Nobby Head North

Travelled 340 kms north from Perth at 100kmh, with Troy drinking an average 15.5 litres for each 100 km.

OK, before we really start to get into this blog, I confess that we have a couple of odd habits: we give names to inanimate objects, and we tend to appreciate the quirky (I plan to post a ‘Gallery of the Quirky’ showcasing our favourite quirky photos). Apart from that, we’d be considered a normal couple who love travelling and adventure. For the record, our named inanimate objects include:

  • Troy Touareg – named after a bloke named Troy, who had a show in the late 1990s “Troy’s Outback Adventures”.
  • Dora the Caravan – named after Dora the Explorer.
  • Bert and Daisy – our two favourite pewter wine goblets that come with us on all our travels, with their names elaborately engraved on their side. Ted, an old friend of Jan’s family, bequeathed Bert and Daisy to us, as they were originally his great uncle and great aunt who were intrepid travellers around our great nation many years ago.

We left Perth after lunchtime, as I had booked my car in to get the tow electrical flat 7 pin plug changed to a flat 12 pin plug, which matched the flat 12 pin plug of our van. This enabled us to charge our caravan batteries and fridge while we were on the road (thanks Auto Extra in Osborne Park).

We headed north along Indian Ocean Drive, cocooned inside Troy Touareg and oblivious to the chilly 17 degrees outside, enjoying the clear blue skies and Indian Ocean shining brilliant blue in the sunlight. We marvelled at the ocean, undulating landscape, bright white sand dunes next to the road, and were intrigued by the modern art sculptures that dotted the Indian Ocean Drive. Not to be outdone, Mother Nature has put on her own amazing art display at Nambung National Park – the world renowned Pinnacles. Limestone sentinels dot the landscape.

The ‘caravanners wave’ commenced early on the trip. It’s funny how two simple gestures of acknowledging an oncoming stranger hurtling past at around 100kph can promote a sense of virtual mate ship. Kind of like a secret society handshake! Different personalities bring on different waves – Some wave vigorously and show the whites of their teeth as they smile, while others nonchalantly lift the index finger from the steering wheel.

Driving into the setting sun at 4.08pm on day 1 of our adventure. After consulting with WikiCamps, we arrived at our first stop. A free overnight rest stop, Nobby Head North was incredible, coming with its own welcome party! The brutal looking beast of a dog with a thunderous bark turned out to be a big friendly sook! I hope the pictures below do justice to the location. We really are so lucky to be living in this great country.

WA Indian Ocean Drive
Indian Ocean Drive
WA Indian Ocean Drive Dunes
Indian Ocean Drive Sand Dunes
WA Nobby Head North
Nobby Head North Sunset
WA Nobby Head North Guard Dog
Nobby Head North Guard Dog
WA Nobby Head North
Bert and Daisy’s first night out
WA Nobby Head North Beach
Nobby Head North Beach
WA Nobby Head North Sunset
Nobby Head North Sunset
WA Nobby Head North Night Sky
Nobby Head North Night Sky