Undara Volcanic National Park to Atherton Tablelands

Travelled 229 kms @ 90 kph. Troy drank 16.9 litres/100kms.

We’ve driven many kilometres across Australia, North America, as well as over 40,000 kms across Europe, and have never experienced such a dramatic change in landscape as we did today with the drive from Undara to the Atherton Tablelands. In the space of an hour, we shifted from a straight road through the relatively flat, dry, grassy savannah countryside to a winding road through mountainous, wet, lush green farmland dispersed with tropical, dense rainforest. Amazing!

The Atherton Tablelands is the northern part of Australia’s Great Dividing Range and is a great area to visit. We passed through Atherton, a very pretty town, and set up Dora at the free camp at Rocky Creek War Memorial in Tolga, near Mareeba. The Memorial was actually the site of the largest hospital in the southern hemisphere during World War II, and the remains of the different buildings are clearly marked today. The local community has delivered a great homage to those who lost their lives in war, as well as the many who helped the war effort.

The next day we visited the local Peanut shop and met Geoff, who is passionate about anything to do with Australia or peanuts. He set up the store a few years ago and has created his own peanut recipes, including yummy chocolate peanut paste. He bemoaned the challenges facing small business today, including the difficulties in breaking into the shelves of the Coles-Woolworths duopoly. Despite this, he is slowly making inroads, and we were more than happy to help out by purchasing a range of his tasty peanut products. All were well priced and generally good for you, though not if you’re anaphylactic (… sorry,  poor taste). We also went to the Mareeba markets and fell in love with ‘Bones’, a delightful wire sculptured barramundi fish that local artist Amanda created after a memorable meal in the Northern Territory. Once we heard from Amanda that the rodeo was in town, we grasped the opportunity to be part of a truly unique Aussie bush experience. Unbeknown to us, the Mareeba Rodeo is actually the second largest rodeo in Australia (not sure which town holds the first mantle?).

The Mareeba Rodeo: lots of cowboys and cowgirls, with their hats, boots, rhinestones and checked shirts. Great sights, food, entertainment and fun! Displaying strength, skill, flexibility and sheer guts, it was quite incredible to see those cowboys and cowgirls hold on to the bucking horses and bulls. How their bodies and backs were able to withstand the massive jolts of those fierce, bucking beasts defies logic!

Giant Peanut
Giant Peanut
Peanut Place in Tolga
Jan and Geoff at his Peanut Place in Tolga
Amanda with Bones
Amanda with Bones
Mareeba Rodeo Queen Pageant
Mareeba Rodeo Queen Pageant
Wholesome Rodeo Food
Wholesome Rodeo Food
Qld Mareeba Rodeo Wood Choppers
Rodeo Big Wood Choppers
Mareeba Rodeo
Ride ’em Cowboy! Mareeba Rodeo
Mareeba Rodeo Bull
Mareeba Rodeo Bull Riding
Jan Enjoying the Wholesome Turkey Leg
Jan Enjoying the Wholesome Turkey Leg

Prairie to Undara Volcanic National Park

Travelled 588 kms today @ 100 kph. Troy drank 16.1 litres/100kms.

A long drive today to Undara Volcanic National Park was broken up by a delightful stopover at Charters Towers, a major Queensland gold mining town of the 1870s and now a thriving quaint rural community. Lots of fine architecture, nice murals plastered on walls, and a number of trendy cafes and arcades lined the wide streets.

Taking the inland route towards our destination of Cape Tribulation, we decided to stay at ‘The Undara Experience’ and have a look at the famous lava tubes, which we had never heard of back in WA. We passed through a number of small towns along the Gregory Developmental Road, the most famous one being Greenvale, where Slim Dusty wrote and sang a song about it’s Three Rivers Hotel.

We went onto the Kennedy Highway and then the Gulf Developmental Road to The Undara Experience, an impressive resort with a range of accommodation including rail carriages, cabins, and camping facilities. We were able to get an unpowered site, set Dora up as the sun set, and then joined the campfire sing-along at night.

The lava tube tour the next day was terrific. We were thoroughly impressed with the lava tubes, as well as by our guide’s intimate knowledge and empathy for the area. Bram Collins is a 6th generation cattle farmer, and his family used to run cattle on tracts of land where the National Park currently lies. His expert commentary on environmental, commercial and personal matters made it an enthralling tour. Well worth the tour ticket of $54.

Charters Towers City Hall
Charters Towers City Hall
Charters Towers Mural
Charters Towers Mural
Greenvale's Three Rivers Pub
Greenvale’s Three Rivers Pub
The Undara Experience Dining Area
The Undara Experience Dining Area
The Undara Experience Campfire
The Undara Experience Campfire
Guide Clem
Guide Clem
Undara Lava Tube Entrance
Undara Lava Tube Entrance
Undara Lava Tube
Undara Lava Tube
Lava Tube Skeletal Remains
Lava Tube Skeletal Remains