Atherton Tablelands to Port Douglas

Travelled 102 kms today @ 90 kph. Troy only drank 14.6 litres/100kms.

After negotiating the steep winding road down the Tablelands, we found our way to the sugar fields that lined the Captain Cook highway, which soon made way for the high spec resorts as we drove into Port Douglas. A beautiful town, Port Douglas’ population of 11,000 swells by another 8,000 in the winter months due to the tourist sun-chasers. We browsed through the quaint markets and enjoyed a cup of sugar cane juice made before right our eyes. Sooo sweet and delicious! We were surveying the fine glassware at a stall right next to pretty St Marys by the sea church when we both jumped at the sound of the bells ringing at 12pm. Geoff, the friendly attendant who enjoyed a laugh, had a slight chuckle and told us how recently a frail old lady of at least 80 years had jumped out of her skin when the bell tolled and cried out ‘F–k, I nearly shat meself!’

We drove north and set Dora up at Pinnacle Village Holiday Park at Wonga Beach, just shy of the Daintree and Cape Tribulation, the turning point of our journey.

TOP TIP: Setting up your RV on a city’s/town’s outskirts or in a neighbouring smaller town is often cheaper and usually allows you to experience more spacious sites away from the hustle and bustle. You can then simply catch public transport to visit the major town, or if towing a van, you can unhitch and just drive your car to places of interest.

TOP TIP: Beware setting up your RV directly under the big beautiful shady trees in Australia’s tropical north. You may find your RV covered in bat faeces and urine in the morning, which can cause havoc to paintwork if not cleaned off promptly.

Captain Cook Highway
Captain Cook Highway
Qld Sugar Cane Road
Sugar Cane Road Maze
Port Douglas Markets on the beach
Port Douglas Markets on the Beach
The Old Tree at the Markets
The Old Tree at the Markets
Characters Abound in the Markets
Characters Abound in the Markets
Qld Port Douglas Markets3
Geoff, Nikki and St Marys by the Sea
Pretty St Marys
Pretty St Marys
The view through the window behind St Mary's alter
The Window Behind St Mary’s Alter
Bert and Daisy resting at our Pinnacle Park
Bert and Daisy at Pinnacle Park
Wonga Beach
Jan Enjoying Wonga Beach
Microflight along Wonga
Microflight Along Wonga
Wonga Beach Nut
Wonga Beach Nut
Fishing on the Beach
Fisherman Unhappy with his Catch
Wonga Bubble Crab Holes
Wonga Bubble Crab Holes
Wonga Bubble Crab!
Bubble Crab!
Newell Beach near Wonga
Newell Beach near Wonga
Fallen Tree at Newell
Fallen Tree at Newell
Tree Art
Newell Beach Tree Art
Tree Trunk
The Trunk

Undara Volcanic National Park to Atherton Tablelands

Travelled 229 kms @ 90 kph. Troy drank 16.9 litres/100kms.

We’ve driven many kilometres across Australia, North America, as well as over 40,000 kms across Europe, and have never experienced such a dramatic change in landscape as we did today with the drive from Undara to the Atherton Tablelands. In the space of an hour, we shifted from a straight road through the relatively flat, dry, grassy savannah countryside to a winding road through mountainous, wet, lush green farmland dispersed with tropical, dense rainforest. Amazing!

The Atherton Tablelands is the northern part of Australia’s Great Dividing Range and is a great area to visit. We passed through Atherton, a very pretty town, and set up Dora at the free camp at Rocky Creek War Memorial in Tolga, near Mareeba. The Memorial was actually the site of the largest hospital in the southern hemisphere during World War II, and the remains of the different buildings are clearly marked today. The local community has delivered a great homage to those who lost their lives in war, as well as the many who helped the war effort.

The next day we visited the local Peanut shop and met Geoff, who is passionate about anything to do with Australia or peanuts. He set up the store a few years ago and has created his own peanut recipes, including yummy chocolate peanut paste. He bemoaned the challenges facing small business today, including the difficulties in breaking into the shelves of the Coles-Woolworths duopoly. Despite this, he is slowly making inroads, and we were more than happy to help out by purchasing a range of his tasty peanut products. All were well priced and generally good for you, though not if you’re anaphylactic (… sorry,  poor taste). We also went to the Mareeba markets and fell in love with ‘Bones’, a delightful wire sculptured barramundi fish that local artist Amanda created after a memorable meal in the Northern Territory. Once we heard from Amanda that the rodeo was in town, we grasped the opportunity to be part of a truly unique Aussie bush experience. Unbeknown to us, the Mareeba Rodeo is actually the second largest rodeo in Australia (not sure which town holds the first mantle?).

The Mareeba Rodeo: lots of cowboys and cowgirls, with their hats, boots, rhinestones and checked shirts. Great sights, food, entertainment and fun! Displaying strength, skill, flexibility and sheer guts, it was quite incredible to see those cowboys and cowgirls hold on to the bucking horses and bulls. How their bodies and backs were able to withstand the massive jolts of those fierce, bucking beasts defies logic!

Giant Peanut
Giant Peanut
Peanut Place in Tolga
Jan and Geoff at his Peanut Place in Tolga
Amanda with Bones
Amanda with Bones
Mareeba Rodeo Queen Pageant
Mareeba Rodeo Queen Pageant
Wholesome Rodeo Food
Wholesome Rodeo Food
Qld Mareeba Rodeo Wood Choppers
Rodeo Big Wood Choppers
Mareeba Rodeo
Ride ’em Cowboy! Mareeba Rodeo
Mareeba Rodeo Bull
Mareeba Rodeo Bull Riding
Jan Enjoying the Wholesome Turkey Leg
Jan Enjoying the Wholesome Turkey Leg